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 By Lindsay E. Sammon
 It’s fitting, then, that the most recent FN Shoe Star challenge asked contestants to use the Big Apple as a backdrop for their latest Shoe Star work. The final three challengers — Ryan Baker, Melissa Cordero and Melanie Maggio — were asked to design a shoe inspired by three randomly chosen New York haunts. In the Grab Bag challenge, Baker drew the legendary Astor Place barbershop. The super-fast, super-cheap chop shop was the basis for Baker’s colorful mid-top sneaker, which worked in the traditional redand- blue striped-pole detailing. He made the cut — judges Fred Allard of Nine West, FIT’s Ellen Goldstein, FN’s Michael Atmore and guest judge Steve Madden, a native New Yorker, gave Baker the top score.  “Ryan really nailed it as far as [capturing] the place,” said Madden. “It’s a shoe that can sell, and it fits the cool and commercial criteria.” As for Maggio’s lambskin convertible boot, inspired by baked goods and wicker baskets sold at the Union Square farmers’ market, judges said it was versatile and on-trend, perfect for her target audience. Cordero’s creation, a black evening shoe with a gold embossed leather heel, took its cues from an exhibition of 18th-century French decorative art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art — think royal furniture and Sèvres porcelain. But Cordero’s work missed the mark. “The black [color choice] takes everything down into a shadow,” said Allard. Madden said the shoe lacked wearability, while Goldstein felt it looked “too old” for Cordero’s young target customer. Moving onto the finale, the pressure is mounting for Baker and Maggio. At stake, a one-year job on the Nine West design team and the coveted crown of FN Shoe Star. Who Stays: 
Melanie Maggio: “It’s really
hard to see Melissa go because
we’ve been working together this
whole time, and she’s great to work
with. I’m definitely worried [about
the final challenge]. Ryan has had the
top score for the past three challenges, and
it’s going to be a really tough [final] competition. But I
feel like my designs throughout the competition have
been pretty consistent; I design fashionable women’s
shoes, so when it comes down to making a collection, I
have a good chance [of winning].”
 Inspired by the Union Square farmers’ market, Maggio’s two-piece, knee-high boot with basketweave detail could also be an ankle boot. 
Ryan Baker: “I feel pretty [confident].
I like Fred and I’d like working
for Fred. But I think [Melanie and
I both] deserve it. At this point,
we’re two really good designers,
and whatever happens, happens.
First or second, you’re still going
to have a great opportunity. When
this [contest] started, I didn’t envision
being in the top two. I just wanted to try it and see how I
compared with everybody else. But being in the top two
is great, so I’m satisfied.”
 Baker incorporated the colors of the Astor Place barbershop into his sneaker and added perforated details for breathability and comfort. Avoiding the expected red, white and blue color story, Baker enhanced the upper with a bright yellow accent. Who Goes:  Melissa Cordero: “In the
beginning [of this challenge], I
thought the Met was an easy location,
but in the end it was probably
the hardest. I made about five pairs
of shoes and trashed every idea before
coming up with this one. It was difficult to
translate all of a century into a shoe. I knew I was going
home today. But this [contest] — stress and all — has
been so much fun. Melanie [has a good chance of winning],
but creatively, Ryan really knows how to push it
and he can do it under pressure.”
  What's Next:
Sketching and making sample shoes is one thing. Convincing one of the most powerful retailers to buy your work is another. In the final FN Shoe Star challenge, the two remaining contestants will sketch a six-piece collection. One of the six looks will be made into a sample shoe, while the other five will be presented in storyboard format, illustrating the inspiration and materials. Will it be enough to convince an influential buyer? Jeffrey Kalinsky of Jeffrey New York and Nordstrom weighs in as guest judge and helps pick the first FN Shoe Star. |
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